By Baroness Sheri de Borchgrave
I followed my eye to the next pale pink to Chateau D’Esclans, which is a grand estate in the heart of Provence. Chateau D’ Esclans Whispering Angel ($20) is made from Grenache with a little Rolle (which is the secret to their blend) and Syrah, Cinsault and Tibouren and is vinified in stainless steel. The winery’s consulting oenologist, Patrick Leon, worked with Mouton Rothschild for two decades, and is creating some rosés that are not just simple summer picnic wines. Chateau D’Esclans “Les Clans” ($60) is made from 50- to 80-year-old vines and is aged, Burgundian style, in new and second-year 600 liter barrels for 10 months. The winery made only seven barrels of this for the whole world. The result? Les Clans tastes more like a great Meursault (Cote de Beaune Burgundy) and is one of the few rosés meant to age. In fact the pourer told me that at a recent dinner party, chef Charlie Trotter prepared his famous rabbit terrine and paired it with Les Clans.