FINANCIAL TIME- Tickled pink

By Jancis Robinson

The growth in popularity of pink wines has been one of the few success stories for wine retailers in the UK recently. That growth has apparently slowed down but rosé has firmly established its position as a valid, non-wimpy wine style.
I have been tasting as many different examples as possible. Yapp Bros has a particularly interesting selection and I have come to the – admittedly hardly devastating – conclusion that Provence does pink better than anywhere else. Or, rather, Provence produces more great rosés than any other wine region. There may be other candidates but their wines rarely manage to combine the delicacy and subtle, dry, herbiness of a really fine Provençal pink.
While there were some excellent practitioners before his advent from Bordeaux, newcomer Sacha Lichine did the rosé market a great service by showing just how fine (and expensive) his Château d’Esclans pink wines could be.

(among)Jancis’s rosé picks

Ch d’Esclans, Esclans 2009 Côtes de Provence
Beautifully pale salmon colour and no shortage of personality. Lots of herbal top notes. Bone dry and with a certain smokiness. Very smooth texture. Benefits from bottle age.
£16.25 Vin Est, Glos.

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