Can rosé wine ever be a great wine? Château d’Esclans in Provence in southern France believes it can and sells its rosé wines at high prices. But isn’t it somehow contradictory for rosé wine to have this aspiration? Isn’t rosé an unpretentious, easy drinking wine made for fast consumption? Or can it be both?
15% of the Provence estates make ultra-premium rosé today , says Master of Wine Louise Sydbeck who has made a study of this wine segment. And many more are thinking of making one. Nearly all of these prestige rosés were launched after 2006. So it is a fairly new phenomenon. Although some people are sceptics and argue that it is the same wine only in a classier bottle.
It is true that the packaging and the marketing are as important as the colour . When Sacha Lichine, son of famous Alexis Lichine who owned Grand Cru Classé Château Prieuré Lichine in Margaux (Bordeaux), bought Château d’Esclans in Provence a few years ago and announced that he was going to make the world’s best and most expensive rosé wine, he received a lot of media attention. His wines, with A Whispering Angel taking the lead, changed the rosé wine scene in Provence.