JANCIS ROBINSON- Provence pinks, and a white scoop

by Richard Hemming

To accompany my recent Provençal vision of the future article, here follows a collection of tasting notes on that region’s major output, rosé.
The most notable wine, however, is also the odd one out: a first ever (I think) taste of Ch d’Esclan’s inaugural white wine from Sasha Lichine and consultant Patrick Léon (ex Mouton), an oak-aged Rolle, the local synonym for Vermentino. It shares all the craft and quality of their famed rosés, on which Jancis reported in Pink wine can be fine wine.

Ch d’Esclans, Déesse 2009 Côtes de Provence 17 Drink 2011-2012
To be released 2011. Pineapples, vanilla, loads of opulence and tropical fruit. Fabulous: such vivacity and poise, great texture, good dose of oak lending complexity. Lengthy, balanced, reminiscent of the leaner styles of white Bordeaux, perhaps. (RH)