Lewin on Wine – Can Rosé Be Interesting ?

Château d’Esclans is at the extreme end of the move towards premium rosé. I tasted all four of its cuvées this week.

Whispering Angel, of course, has taken the world of rosé by storm, although actually it comes mostly from purchased grapes. Even though it’s the entry level, I think it has a very good balance of fruity to savory elements, giving it some flavor interest.

Moving to the chateau wine, which goes further into the premium class, the balance shift a little more in the savory direction.

With the two super-premium cuvées, Les Clans and Garrus, there’s a real sense of underlying structure. Tasting the 2011, Les Clans is now just right, but Garrus has a slightly phenolic or even tannic impression suggesting that it actually needs a little more time […]

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