by Victoria Moore
The wine trade’s recent rhapsody in pink has resulted in a rosé marketing binge which can confuse as well as entice.
“…Some credit for the upscaling of rosé must go to Sacha Lichine, son of the Russian émigré and Bordeaux legend Alexis, who set up Château d’Esclans near Frejus in Provence and proceeded with an ambition that appeared to outstrip possibility. At any rate, I arrived there a few years ago to taste the most expensive still pink in the world (Garrus, which now costs €90/£76) and its stablemates, ready to sneer. I left realising Lichine was on to something and that his Whispering Angel (now £13.95 a bottle) was, if not cheap, then affordable and also good…”